Full day yesterday at the Americans for the Arts convention, and we’re already partway through day 2. I fell asleep last night at an embarrassing early hour with the lights on, so I’ve decided to take a few minutes now and start catching up on yesterday.
First, the venue. I can’t say enough good things about Baltimore as a meeting destination. From where I sit, looking west over the Inner Harbor from the waterfront Marriott’s convention annex, I see a panorama of thoughtfully developed waterfront public spaces, half a dozen museums, even a pirate ship (alas, not pictured below) loaded with children sailing into port between Piers 5 and 6. The tent in the foreground is where Peter Frampton (!) played last night.

This new development where the Marriott is located, occupying what I think of as the no-man’s land between the Inner Harbor and Fells Point, is a great success, bringing residents, office workers, tourists, and entertainment seekers into the neighborhood at all hours, and tying the eastern waterfront into the central city. And Little Italy and Fells Point entertainment districts are only a few blocks’ walk.
There are too many museums here to count (I think I’ve passed 7 of them personally and I’ve barely left the hotel), and I do plan to make time for at least one. I had hoped to make a visit to the Baltimore Public Works Museum, located in the iconic building at the edge of the Inner Harbor that I think of as the “pumphouse” (presumably because, once upon a time in a previous life, someone once told me that that’s what it was).

It combines three of my passions: museums, urban infrastructure, and buildings that look like Victorian workhouses. However, I just learned from the Internet that it was apparently closed a couple of months ago due to the city’s dire budget situation, so I might have to choose another.
And, of course, the American Visionary Art Museum, the site of last night’s party, will get its own post, but let me ask right now: what happened to Federal Hill? This once-edgy neighborhood, where the city was selling abandoned townhouses 25 years ago for $1, is now one of Baltimore’s most desirable residential and entertainment districts — I’m looking across the harbor right now at Ritz-Carlton Residences, for chrissakes. Compared to what it was in 1980 or even 1990, the neighborhood is nearly unrecognizable, after one of the most successful transformations I can remember seeing anywhere.